正體中文|English
在自然生態體系、人文經濟活動都豐富多元的台灣,本土豬種是一群被舞台燈光遺忘的明星。除了遍布海拔1,000至3,000公尺的森林內的台灣野豬族群、知名度較高的蘭嶼豬(醫用),還有傳統客家料理愛用的美濃豬、桃園豬(品系有官方保留育種)、頂雙溪豬(已絕種)、中坡陡豬(已絕種)這些本土的黑毛豬種。與我們餐桌上最大宗的豬肉來源 – 白豬(三品豬,即杜瑞克+約克夏+藍瑞斯),有很大的不同。
大家(即使是養豬產業人士也是)鮮少知道的是:本土黑豬(美濃豬、桃園豬、頂雙溪豬、中坡陡豬)飼育已有近400年(西元1700年)的歷史,本土豬種在客家人聚落的培育下,具有耐熱、抗病、耐粗食(可食用廚餘)的品種特色,這些基因特色其實在世界養豬產業,仍有獨特的商業價值。除此之外,美濃豬的熟成美味,吸引眼光卓越的養豬達人在日本殖民時期由台灣移飼至琉球,再引進九州飼育改良。世界級美味的日本鹿兒島黑豬,基因譜系與美濃豬甚有淵源。桃園豬則具有生育力強、母性佳的特色。在種源保護認知起步較晚的台灣,近百年來業者(養豬場)將美濃豬與桃園豬長年混交飼養;政府單位(農業部)歷年評估認為這2支本土黑豬食用豬種在飼料換肉率、熟成天期(黑豬12~15月齡;白豬6~9月齡)、食用美味(本土黑豬肉油脂比率高)的競爭力不足,再加上精料(大豆為主、禁用廚餘)飼養是世界產業趨勢,本土黑豬族群沒有種源純化與保存的價值。所以現今尚存的美濃豬,只能由體態上略分,沒有嚴謹客觀的定義,也不是可由官方認證的獨立豬種。
其實,台灣本土黑豬,不僅是台灣的客家生活文化特色之一,世界級的特有基因價值(耐熱、抗病、耐粗食);對台灣社會來說,本土黑豬餵養廚餘的飼育模式,還有環保永續、以及降低糧食(飼料)進口依賴的國家級戰略利益。廚餘的減量(例:食物料理的去骨化)、再利用(例:80~90度持續50分鐘高溫蒸煮)是正面處理比迴避(直接當垃圾丟棄)要好的營運方式;台灣本土黑豬的純化保種,綜合看來則是一個長期利大於弊的必要投資。
目前台灣本土黑豬的飼養,仔豬約9成在屏東縣飼育,成豬育養則集中分布在桃園、屏東兩市縣。在美濃豬、桃園豬獨立保種的客觀環境不復的限制下,比照鹿兒島黑豬、西班牙伊比利黑豬的產業發展模式,在屏東以客家傳統聚落六堆為名篩選純化培育 六堆黑豬 本土豬種,是有從既有的百年基礎,發展成世界級特色產業的潛力。
位於屏東的台灣本土黑豬業者,有2位達人 – 李榮春先生(平埔黑豬)、謝旭忠先生(東寶黑豬肉棧)值得介紹:兩位先生畜牧場提供的台灣本土黑豬肉品,都具松坂級的美味,也均是台北市等六都城市星級餐廳的供應商,在屏東本地也有優美精緻的小店舖值得一逛。另外,也都已有冷凍、冷藏包裝食品可以購買,全省皆有配送。
李榮春先生近年參與農業部(畜產試驗所)與台灣大學(王佩華教授)自2008年啟動的計劃,進行台灣本土黑豬的篩選純化固定作業,成功推出了新的獨立商用品系 – 平埔黑豬;謝旭忠先生的東寶黑豬,在2010年代曾獲台灣大學(朱有田教授)的支持,嘗試進行美濃豬族群的基因鑑定與純化保留工作。
門市地址
平埔黑豬食堂:(2024年停業)屏東縣屏東市仁德路43巷4號1樓(職人町)
東寶黑豬肉棧:屏東縣內埔鄉和興路194號
網 址
平 埔 黑豬:odiva.com.tw
東寶黑豬肉:dbblackpork.com
In Taiwan, a wonderland
rich in diverse natural ecosystems and cultural-economic activities, indigenous
pig breeds are stars that have been left out of the spotlight. In addition to
the Taiwan wild boar populations inhabiting forests at altitudes of 1,000 to
3,000 meters, the more widely recognized Lanyu pig (used for medical purposes),
and several native black-haired pig breeds adopted in traditional Hakka
culinary favorites like Meinong pig, Taoyuan pig (officially certificated pig breed), and the Dingshuangxi and Zhongpodou
pigs (both extincted for decades). These differ greatly from the primary source
of pork on our tables – white pigs (a crossbreed of Duroc, Yorkshire, and
Landrace).
Few people, even
those within the pig farming industry, are aware that Taiwan’s native black
pigs (Meinong, Taoyuan, Dingshuangxi and Zhongpodou pigs) have a breeding
history of nearly 400 years, dating back to the 1700s. Developed in Hakka
settlements, these native breeds are characterized by their heat tolerance,
disease resistance, and ability to thrive on coarse feed (including kitchen
scraps), traits that still hold unique commercial value in the global pork
industry. Additionally, the mature taste of Meinong pig attracted expert pig
breeders who, during the Japanese colonial period, transported it from Taiwan
to Okinawa, and later to Kyushu, where it was further bred. The world-class
Kagoshima black pig of Japan has genetic links to the Meinong pig. Meanwhile,
the Taoyuan pig is notable for its high fertility and strong maternal
instincts. However, with Taiwan's relatively recent efforts in source
protection, for nearly a century, pig farmers have interbred Meinong and
Taoyuan pigs. Government assessments over the years have concluded that these
native black pig breeds do not compete effectively with white pigs in terms of
feed-to-meat conversion, maturation period (12–15 months for black pigs vs. 6–9
months for white pigs), and taste (native black pigs have a higher fat ratio).
With the global industry moving towards feed primarily based on soybean and
away from kitchen scraps, the government has deemed the purification and
preservation of native black pig breeds unnecessary. Consequently, the remaining
Meinong pigs can be distinguished only by general appearance,
without precise definitions, and they are not officially certified as distinct
breeds.
Taiwan’s native
black pigs are not only an essential feature of Hakka cultural life but also
hold unique, world-class genetic value (heat tolerance, disease resistance, and
coarse feed adaptability). For Taiwan, the model of feeding native black pigs
with kitchen scraps presents environmental sustainability and national
strategic benefits by reducing reliance on imported food (feed). In addition, reducing
(e.g., deboning food waste) and reusing of kitchen scraps (e.g., steam-cooking
at 80–90°C for 50 minutes) is a more positive approach than simply discarding
them as waste. In this context, purifying and preserving Taiwan’s native black
pig breeds is a long-term investment with benefits that outweigh the
disadvantages.
Currently, around
90% of Taiwan's native black piglets are raised in Pingtung, while adult pigs
are primarily raised in Taoyuan and Pingtung. Given the objective environment with
none feasibility for independently preserving the Meinong and Taoyuan pig
breeds, a potential strategy is to develop a world-class industry by following
the models of Kagoshima black pigs and Spanish Iberian black pigs. In Pingtung,
this could involve selecting, purifying, and breeding the native "Liudui Hakka
Black Pig" named after the traditional Hakka settlement of Liudui.
In Pingtung, there
are two notable experts in the native black pig industry: Mr. Spring Lee (Odiva
Black Pork) and Mr. Stephen Hsieh (Dongbao Black Pork). The pork products from
their farms offer premium-level flavor and are supplied to top-tier restaurants
in metropolitan cities e.g. Taipei. They also have beautiful, refined shops in
Pingtung, along with frozen and refrigerated packaged products available for
purchase and distribution nationwide.
In recent years,
Mr. Spring Lee has participated in a project launched in 2008 by the Livestock
Research Institute of MoA and NTU (project by Professor Pei-Hua Wang) to
select, purify, and stabilize Taiwan's native black pig breeds, successfully
introducing his independent commercial line – the Pingpu Black Pig. Mr. Stephen
Hsieh’s Dongbao Black Pig received support in the 2010s from NTU (project by Pofessor
Yu-Ten Zhu) to attempt genetic identification and preservation of the Meinong
pig population.
Store
Address:
Odiva Black Pig Restaurant: (closed in 2024) No. 4, Lane 43, Rende Rd., Pingtung City,
Pingtung County (Craftsman’s Town)
Dongbao Black Pork
Shop: No. 194, Hexing
Rd., Neipu Township, Pingtung County
Company
Website:
Odiva Black Pig: odiva.com.tw
Dongbao Black Pork: dbblackpork.com
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